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Article: Vacheron Constantin at its best: Les Cabinotiers Récits de Voyage 9 pieces Collection

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Vacheron Constantin at its best: Les Cabinotiers Récits de Voyage 9 pieces Collection

Les Cabinotiers Récits de Voyages collection features 9 one-of-a-kind watches that map the global growth of the Maison. Founded in 1755, the grandson of the founder, Jacques-Barthélémi Vacheron, alongside his associate François Constantin, rapidly recognised the potential of international markets, establishing connections with Central Europe, South America, Scandinavia, Asia, the United States, and China. Echoing the vision of its founders, these exceptional timepieces not only highlight the regions where Vacheron Constantin flourished, but also honor the unique artistic essence of these places. Demonstrating the Maison's dedication to preserving traditional artistic techniques, the Récits de Voyages watches offer more than just surface beauty, embodying Vacheron's remarkable heritage in watchmaking.

In essence, the following is a collection of 9 distinctive timepieces that leads enthusiasts on an exciting worldwide journey, featuring brief stops at crucial locations significant to the brands' global growth. 

Les Cabinotiers

We will discuss the different pieces of the collection in chronological order but first, who are "Les Cabinotiers"

Les Cabinotiers" refers to a collection of top watchmakers and in-house artisans at Vacheron Constantin, historically focusing on custom orders. Before the pandemic, their last major release was 'La Musique Du Temps', a collection known for its chiming complications, high-end enamel work, and case engraving. These timepieces are rarely seen in person as they tend to be pre-sold to clients.

Les Cabinotiers stands out for its accessibility in commissioning unique pieces, unlike other luxury watch brands where such commissions might require a closer relationship with the brand. Vacheron Constantin CEO, Louis Ferla, confirmed that anyone can commission a piece from Les Cabinotiers. The collection has shifted to producing thematic releases annually due to client demand and the long wait times for custom orders. Two-thirds of their production is dedicated to these releases and other pieces throughout the year, leaving only about 13-16 slots for custom commissions.

Now, onto the Récits de Voyage collection...

Tribute to Arabesque - Minute Repeater Tourbillon 

First in the list as this one with reference 6650C/000G-084Cgoes back to the 19th century. 

In 1817, Vacheron Constantin began its association with Turkey, the heart of the Ottoman Empire, and later expanded to Egypt and the Middle East, receiving orders for intricate pocket watches from the region's royal families. Reflecting this era, Les Cabinotiers has created a Minute Repeater Tourbillon, adorned with traditional Islamic motifs.

These designs, inspired by the lavish floral and arabesque patterns of the Grand Mosque in Abu Dhabi, are meticulously hand-engraved over three months. The skill of the master engraver is evident in the precise, tenth-of-a-millimeter cuts on the white gold dial and case. The watch features a detailed white gold cover, reminiscent of mashrabiyas, against a matte black backdrop, enhancing its delicate, lace-like appearance.

The 44mm white gold case is adorned with organic spirals and a geometric pattern on the flange, created through line and intaglio engraving.

Equally impressive is the complex in-house calibre 2755, featuring a tourbillon visible at 6 o’clock on the dial, and a minute repeater, a mechanism evolved from the ultra-complex Tour de l’Ille, commemorating the Maison's 250th anniversary.

Tribute to Art Deco - Minute Repeater Tourbillon

The next stop is New York, where by the early 1900's, Vacheron Constantin was well-known among the city's elite, including figures like oil magnate Rockefeller and automobile pioneer James Ward Packard. Reflecting the early 20th century trend of business giants investing in monumental skyscrapers, such as the iconic Art Deco Chrysler Building, Vacheron introduces the Art Deco tribute watch.

This timepiece features a dial adorned with intricate wood marquetry, reminiscent of the Chrysler Building's spire. The dial's design, comprising 110 small wood pieces framed in gold, is crafted from pearwood and tulipwood, stained in black or blue, and finely sanded. This meticulous work, taking a month to complete, mirrors the precision of cloisonné enamel techniques. The gold pearl minute track and 11 diminishing diamond hour markers create an illusion of depth, while the tourbillon ensures precise timekeeping.

Encased in an 18k pink gold body engraved with herringbone patterns and spanning 44mm, the watch is driven by the sophisticated in-house calibre 2755, featuring a minute repeater and a tourbillon regulator. Similar to the Tribute to Arabesque model, it boasts a 58-hour power reserve displayed on the caseback, with the repeater activated by a slider on the case's left side.

Memorable Places - 4 pieces

This collection comprises four distinctive gold dials as a tribute to Vacheron Constantin's mid-19th century expansion into China. Each dial, inspired by architectural marvels from the Far East and Geneva, is crafted using a novel method of hand-engraving with three types of gold. All models feature 40mm diameter gold cases, made sleek with an impressive height of just 9.10mm, thanks to the use of the ultra-thin calibre 1120 in the watches.

The dials feature 19th-century style illustrations of significant landmarks, including Geneva's Tour de l’Ile, Vacheron’s workshops' site for three decades, Cambodia's ancient city of Angkor Thom, the Imperial Chinese Summer Palace, and Beijing's Confucius Temple and Imperial College Museum.

These masterpieces of craftsmanship are realized by master engravers who meticulously micro-sculpt and line-engrave thin gold plates, varying from 0.4 to 0.8mm in thickness, to capture intricate details.

This process, involving the layering of different gold plates, requires 200 hours per dial. Unique techniques like damascening are used in creating the foliage on the Angkor and Summer Palace dials. The collection is powered by the ultra-thin, 2.45mm thick automatic calibre 1120, which was introduced in 1968 as an advancement of the legendary 1.64mm manual-winding calibre 1003.

Tribute to Haussmannian Style - Malte Tourbillon

This one honors the Maison's growth in Paris during the early 1820s, as well as saluting the urban transformation led by Georges Haussmann.

Reflecting Haussmann's late 19th-century vision of rejuvenating Paris with the motto "to aerate, unify and embellish," the watch is encased in a Malte collection architecture-inspired 18k pink gold barrel-shaped case. This case, meticulously hand-carved, reflects Haussmann's majestic architectural style, featuring a lion and a champlevé frieze on the case middle, and gadroons engraved on the bezel, lugs, and caseback.

Equally impressive is the incorporation of designs reminiscent of the Eiffel Tower's metal structures into the movement. The master engraver has exquisitely decorated the bridges, mainplate, and fixed parts of the skeletonised version of the ultra-thin (6.1mm thick) in-house tourbillon calibre 2790, which includes a date and power reserve, on both front and back.

Launched in 2014, this tonneau-shaped, manual-winding calibre 2790 showcases the tourbillon operating at a leisurely 2.5Hz, with its tourbillon carriage designed in the shape of a Maltese cross.

Tribute To Art Deco Style -  Armillary Tourbillon

The armillary tourbillon is equipped with the Calibre 1990 movement featuring a bi-axial tourbillon regulator and an instantaneous bi-retrograde hours and minutes display. This engineering is derived from the technological prowess of the Vacheron 57620, the world's most complex watch. For us, probably the most appealing aspect is the viewing window to admire all its high-end watchmaking.

More recently, this movement was also incorporated into a bespoke timepiece designed for a custom Rolls Royce. Designwise, this piece seems to deviate from the Maisons's typical refinement towards the flamboyance of less technically-oriented companies. 

The watch showcases a finely engraved yellow gold case and an Art Deco-inspired dial. However, the watch's readability is compromised by the dark hands set against the dark dial, regardless of its 45 mm dial.  

Grisaille High Jewellery – Dragon

This one is moved by the slender calibre 1120, modified slightly to fit a white gold case that measures 40mm in diameter and a very commendable 8.9mm in thickness, all embellished with 7.1 carats of baguette-cut diamonds.

While we appreciate the craftsmanship in creating a gem-set watch, it's the dial work that really sets this piece apart. Then, the dial appeared has like a green "bluer" that pairs very well with the depth and contrast of the enamel work.

 

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