Tudor's bright horizon ahead: From Legacy to Leadership

Tudor watches continue to grow in popularity and sales figures have steadily risen for the past few years. In 2022, sales increased 11% in comparison to the previous year. Tudor's waiting lists keep growing, much like its sibling company, which reflects that there is a genuine interest by the community in what this brand produces. Surely the approximate 30% of the market share that belongs to Rolex has a lot to do with this growth as well as Beckham’s endorsement but surely there is much more behind this success. For many, Tudor is Rolex Lite, a more accessible version of the luxury brand, while for others it stands as a brand for true enthusiasts. In this article, we will look at how and why the brand has evolved from its inception until today, where it has matured as a Swiss watchmaking leader in its own right after succeeding in stepping out of Rolex’s shadow.

Brief historical intro

Founded by Hans Wilsdorf in 1926, Tudor, the sibling brand of Rolex, was initially envisioned to provide high-quality watches at a more affordable price. In its inception, Tudor leaned on Rolex for components and movements, forging a bond that even today sees both brands sharing design elements and technical innovations.
In the 1940s, the introduction of the Oyster case established Tudor's waterproof feature. This innovative momentum continued into the 1950s with the launch of the Submariner (yes, a different one from Rolex).

The Oyster prince submariner that many will find very similar to the older versions of the Rolex Submariner

The subsequent decades saw further innovations: the Prince Date in the 1960s, the Ranger in the 1970s, and a series of iconic designs in the 21st century like the Heritage collection in 2010, which paid homage to its past. Notably, the brand's association with the French Navy shines through in models like the Black Bay Bronze and the Pelagos FXD.

Bay Fifty-Eight Navy Blue on a blue matching strap

Some collaborations, such as with Ducati, or novel designs like the Black Bay Fifty-Eight Navy Blue, showcase Tudor's ambition for maintaining and growing relevance in the industry.

 

Modern times: Tudor rebirth after 2012

In 2012, Tudor made a resounding return. Capitalising on the emerging vintage-inspired trend, Tudor celebrated its shared legacy with Rolex. The Heritage Black Bay ingeniously blended historical elements from both brands by merging iconic features from vintage Submariners into a contemporary design. This was a pivotal moment for Tudor in distinguishing itself from Rolex.

The acclaimed Black Bay Pro, a low-key sports watch that resembles the Rolex Explorer II ref 1655

While Rolex is perceived as the more luxurious counterpart, Tudor has carved its own market niche amongst modern enthusiasts, renowned for its craftsmanship, robustness, and reliability. With in-house movements known for their precision, durability suitable for extreme activities, and innovative collaborations and designs, Tudor is now a synonym for quality and innovation.
Although the competition has been releasing cheaper alternatives powered by quartz technology, Tudor's commitment to mechanical excellence and its relationship with Rolex has contributed to continued success over recent times.

 

6 drivers for a bright future

Tudor continues to expand its offerings and product range, effectively adapting to a rapidly evolving and growing market. 
Its future in the watch industry looks promising from what we have discussed so we will briefly look at the main reasons why it has had and may continue to demonstrate success:

1. New market positioning: With Rolex moving rapidly ever-upwards since 2016 or so, a position opened up. The most direct competitor, Omega, who once was the king (between 1960 and 1970) now follows Rolex to a higher price point and segment. This has allowed Tudor to begin to dominate under the €6k threshold. 
2. Vintage spot-on design language across new releases. Watches like the Black Bay Pro or the Black Bay 58 are a vivid reminiscence of some older Rolex models. The technically improved and redesigned version has successfully attracted enthusiasts to the Tudor brand. 
3. Younger branding and new client segments. A number of celebrities, including David Beckham and Lady Gaga, have promoted the brand during the last decade to claim a more fashionable image. With its marketing, Tudor seems to be aiming at a new target, a younger audience that may not have been much into timepieces before. The only drawback could be that this “fashionista” and youngster allure could scare true watch aficionados away that are after the classic watchmaking feeling.
4. More for less. At its price point, Tudor competes with brands like Breitling, IWC, and Cartier but from the public perspective, they see in Tudor the manufacturing quality and heritage for sometimes less money than those other brands, and it does so with a distinct style of its own.
5. People do perceive quality. Those with a bit of experience collecting, wearing, and trying different brands for a while will quickly notice how well a modern Tudor is made. The weight, adjustments, and polishing, all are smoothly executed.
6. The surge in Rolex demand. Big brothers’ waiting lists have motivated a percentage of Tudor sales. Many younger clients and newcomers in the pursuit of a Rolex piece have had to content themselves with a piece from Tudor. Salesmen at Authorised Dealers (ADs) find in brands like Tudor a way to help future Rolex clients build up their profile while they also generate sales that were harder to close in the past.

Key takeaways

Tudor has succeeded in taking a dominant spot in a segment that previously belonged to Rolex.

For many, Tudor means very good value for money, as the sweet spot between accessibility and attractive high-end watchmaking, topped with proper heritage from the bigger brother.

Nowadays, if you look at what can be bought under €5-6k, Tudor offers many interesting options and these Swiss guys have everything they need, marketing, technical know-how, and product development wise, to continue positioned very high up there.