The controversial Patek Philippe Cubitus Collection

After a quarter-century of waiting, the release of the Patek Philippe Cubitus collection has sparked considerable debate. The last time Patek introduced a new line was in 1999 with the Twenty~4. The Cubitus models, which first leaked online a few days before the official launch, had polarised reactions. It’s certainly an ambitious addition to the Patek Philippe catalog, though not without challenges.

2 days later the dust has settled and it’s time for me to dive into the specifics of these watches.

A trio of sporty-dress watches with Nautilus DNA

The new Cubitus collection consists of three models, two three-hand date pieces and a more complex Grand Date model. All fall in the “sports dress watch” category.

Their resemblance to the famous Nautilus is undeniable. The bracelet designs is pure 5711 and the overall look evoke a clear connection to Patek’s iconic sports watch, though the official press materials try to avoid direct comparisons. Each model shares identical dimensions (44.5mm by 44.9mm).

Dial options are limited to dark green for the all-steel version (ref. 5821/1A) and dark blue for the two-tone (5821/1AR) and platinum (5822P) models, each beautifully textured with horizontal embossing.  

Inside, Patek uses the familiar automatic caliber 26-330 S C with a 21K gold rotor for the two first and a new movement for the most complicated version, the Grand Date.

The Cubitus Grand Date shows a polarising Design

The Cubitus Grand Date is the collection’s most complicated offering, featuring a newly developed caliber 240 PS CI J LU movement.

It’s housed in a 950 platinum case that shares the same dimensions as the other models but is slightly thicker (9.6mm). This version comes on a synthetic navy strap with a folding clasp made from platinum.

The Grand Date offers a moon phase, small seconds, day, and a large twin-disc date display. The movement’s standout feature is its ability to transfer power to all complications equally, achieving instantaneous date changes in just 18 milliseconds. 

However, the dial design has drawn criticism for feeling unbalanced, with lower displays that some argue lack the symmetry expected from a Patek Philippe complication. I do not think this is that important given some dial configurations like the classic 5712. Actually, I have read and heard many enthusiasts' disappointment with the Grand Date’s aesthetics.

Final Thoughts on the Cubitus Collection

After letting the dust settle and revisiting the Cubitus collection, I do think these watches may be beautifully constructed but don’t have the instant elegance that one expects from Patek Philippe. At 44.5mm, they’re undeniably large for dress watches, and the design lacks the refinement of smaller, more streamlined pieces.

Moreover, they are not "different" and "unexpected" enough in my eyes. While the innovation under the hood may be debatable, the overall look falls short of expectations. And they are not "entry-level" either: The steel version is priced at €40,575, the two-toned one goes for €60,257 and if you want the platinum you will have to pay €86,908. 

These are my not so positive thoughts now but its appeal may grow on me over time...

I believe that despite all controversy, the collection will undoubtedly appeal to hundreds looking for a high-end sports watch with Patek’s signature craftsmanship.