The year 2023 marked a significant period for Rolex with the introduction of some surprising mechanical developments and updates. Among these, the recently updated Sky-Dweller emerged as a noteworthy model. Its blend of Oystersteel and a striking Mint Green hue has garnered considerable admiration for its combination of functionality and aesthetics.It was a pitty that these updates did not result in an slimmer, more compact case. Its 42mm in diameter and 14mm in width make it a bit bulky for small wrists. The usable Ring Command Bezel system enhances its ease of setting and use, while the integration of an annual calendar with both local and home time displays in a clear format underscores Rolex's esteemed reputation.
This latest iteration of Rolex’s premier travel watch features nuanced upgrades, notably in the dial and the incorporation of the calibre 9002 with the Chronergy escapement. For those considering a purchase, opting for the slightly pricier Jubilee bracelet over the Oystersteel one is recommended for wrist comfort.
€15,800 is not cheap but you get a lot of watch for this money.
Tudor Black Bay GMT “Opaline"
A fresh iteration with an opaline dial that significantly alters the watch's overall impression, giving it a sharper and distinct look. This dial also distinctly differentiates it from the familiar aesthetic of the Rolex GMT-Master, featuring the the iconic blue and red “Pepsi” bezel. It boasts the brand's usual 41mm case with a 14.5mm thickness.
Technically, the watch retains the Kenissi-manufactured caliber MT5652. This flyer-style GMT mechanism is COSC-certified as a chronometer and boasts a 70-hour power reserve. The stainless steel bracelet is priced at €4,360 and with a fabric strap it goes for €4,040.
Seiko Prospex SPB377 and SPB379 Alpinist GMTs
Seiko had a notable year launching various exceptional models. Among these, the standout series included the GMT equipped, US-exclusive, Seiko 5 Sports SKX-style. Our focus here is on the Seiko Alpinist GMTs. After much anticipation from Alpinist enthusiasts, Seiko unveiled the SPB377 with a blue dial and blue leather strap, and the SPB379 featuring a black dial and black leather strap. Both models below sport a very versatile 39.5mm case, 13.6mm in thickness, and a lug-to-lug distance of 46.4mm.
The 24-hour GMT scale is seamlessly integrated into the stainless steel bezel, maintaining a balanced design that aligns well with the Alpinist look. Internally, these watches are powered by Seiko's own caliber 6R54, a caller-style GMT movement with a 72-hour power reserve. Priced at €1,200 each, these models offer the classic Alpinist style with the added benefit of a GMT function.
Chopard L.U.C 1860
The brand exhibited, at this year's Watches and Wonders, the new Alpine Eagle (XPS) with a surprisingly compact 36.5mm. The Chopard L.U.C 1860 is a dress watch. Echoing the essence of its 1997 predecessor, the latest iteration of the L.U.C 1860 features a salmon dial and is crafted in "Lucent" Steel. This material is 50% stronger than standard steel, which exudes a brilliant white glow, akin to white gold. he dial, in a salmon hue of gold, is adorned with exquisite handcrafted guilloché work.
Chopard has smartly retained the dimensions with 8.2mmin width, recognizing their customers’ preference for subtlety. This reference houses a movement with a micro-rotor, boasting eye-catching finishes. Priced at €25,700, it is not an affordable steel watch but any means, but you will surely wear something quite unique.
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